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 Winterizing your RV
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rocky06fs
Forum Admin


USA
77 Posts

Posted - Jul 17 2006 :  2:07:58 PM  Show Profile Send rocky06fs a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Winterizing Your RV

The following are some guidelines you can use when winterizing your RV. The steps for winterizing are pretty standard for most RVs and should be done in the order listed. The guidelines also assume you have some knowledge about RVs in general, and your RV in particular (knowing where your inlet lines for the fresh water tank are located, for example).

Drain fresh water tank.
Drain and flush gray water holding tank.
Drain and flush black water holding tank.
Drain and flush hot water tank.
If you have low-point drain lines under your RV: Open the hot and cold faucets in your RV.
Uncap the low-point drain lines(NOTE: Some units are equipped with valves instead of caps); let water drain completely.
Recap, or close Drain Lines valves.
Close the hot and cold faucets.

Option, Blowing out the water lines with air:
(Note: If you have low-point drain lines, this may not be necessary).
Screw on compressed air adapter blow out plug onto main fresh water inlet.
Apply compressed air, keeping pressure to less than 20 psi.
Open each faucet, one at a time, to force water out of lines.
Make sure to open each faucet in the RV, including the shower and toilet.
Open hot water drain plug and blow out the water in this tank.
Remove compressed air and compressed air adapter.
Replace drain plug in hot water heater and close all faucets.


Introduce antifreeze into the water lines: Use RV Non-Toxic Antifreeze ONLY.
Approximately 1-2 gallons should be plenty.
Make sure water pump is off and all faucets are closed.
Close the Water Heater Bypass Valve on the back of the water heater.
NOTE: If you don't have a Water Bypass Valve for your hot water tank, seriously consider having a by-pass kit installed. Otherwise, in addition to the water lines you will end up filling the hot water tank with antifreeze. It's not harmful, but you'll use an additional six gallons of antifreeze.

Disconnect the water line where it joins the fresh water tank
- or -
If your RV is so equipped, shut off the valve coming from the fresh water tank and open the valve for the winterizing inlet line.
Place the water inlet line (either from the main system or the winterizing line) into the jug or other source container with the RV antifreeze.
Switch on the water pump; it will start to suck up the antifreeze into the lines.
Open each valve of each faucet slowly, one at a time, until the red antifreeze starts coming out. Once flowing, shut off the faucet valve.
Note: If for some reason you can't drain the water lines using the low-point drain lines and you can't blow out the lines with compressed air, you will have to wait until the antifreeze pushes out the fresh water in the lines before closing the valve. A rule of thumb; don't shut off the valve until the antifreeze starts coming out.
Remember to also do this for the toilet, tub & shower(outside shower if equipped).
Shut off the water pump.
Remove the inlet line from the antifreeze, then either:
Re-attach the water line to the fresh water tank
- or -
Close the winterizing inlet valve and reopen the fresh water valve, if your RV is so equipped.
Pour a small amount of antifreeze down each drain to ensure that the sink traps have antifreeze in them.
Pour a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet bowl also. Note: Don't flush it into the holding tank.




bruoff
Starting Member



USA
1 Posts

Posted - Aug 18 2008 :  8:35:59 PM  Show Profile Send bruoff a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I am a newby to the RV world. This site is very helpful. I do have a question about winterizing. If you drain and blow out your entire system why do you need to add antifreeze? (except for the drains where the traps might hold water.)

Thanks
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dezolen
Average Member



Canada
129 Posts

Posted - Aug 18 2008 :  8:50:11 PM  Show Profile Send dezolen a Private Message  Reply with Quote
You can never blow out lines completely so as an extra precaution always add the antifreeze. Only need a gallon or 2 max. is needed.
Never had a problem having winterized boats for 20 yrs, swimming pool for 16 yrs and now travel trailers for 3 yrs. It took me all this time to realize camping IS the way to enjoy life to the fullest.

2006 Rockwood 2607, Reese dual cam weight distr hitch, Prodigy Brake control
2005 Chevy Tahoe LT auto ride suspension 20" wheels

2002 Mini Schnauzer
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jessebunnell
Junior Member



USA
31 Posts

Posted - Oct 27 2008 :  08:32:10 AM  Show Profile Send jessebunnell a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I have an 02' #2502 and I need to winterize it. My hot water tank is under the couch but I didn't see a drain valve any where. Do I locate the valve and just run a hose outside to drain it?

2002 Rockwood #2502
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midnightpumpkin
Moderator



USA
388 Posts

Posted - Oct 27 2008 :  12:25:31 PM  Show Profile Send midnightpumpkin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
My hot water tank is under the couch but I didn't see a drain valve any where


Do you really mean hot water tank or did you mean to say fresh water tank?

John U

2007 Rockwood 8315SS
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Short Bed, Hemi
Ready to travel weights:
Trailer 6640# on Axles, 920# on tongue.
Combined gross wt no people on board 13855#
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jessebunnell
Junior Member



USA
31 Posts

Posted - Oct 27 2008 :  12:36:07 PM  Show Profile Send jessebunnell a Private Message  Reply with Quote
No, hot water tank. The fresh is under the bed. Can I just pull the HWT anidode rod out from the ext. and drain it that way?

2002 Rockwood #2502
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midnightpumpkin
Moderator



USA
388 Posts

Posted - Oct 27 2008 :  1:22:20 PM  Show Profile Send midnightpumpkin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
That is the way to drain the hot water tank. When you pull the anode rod, open a hot water faucet and let it drain. I leave the anode rod out for the winter. When you install the anode rod, use teflon tape on the threads.

John U

2007 Rockwood 8315SS
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Short Bed, Hemi
Ready to travel weights:
Trailer 6640# on Axles, 920# on tongue.
Combined gross wt no people on board 13855#
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jessebunnell
Junior Member



USA
31 Posts

Posted - Oct 27 2008 :  1:54:28 PM  Show Profile Send jessebunnell a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Gotcha. I put a new one in this spring so I know what we're talking about now. Thanks for the help.

2002 Rockwood #2502
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Draytondave
Average Member



Canada
249 Posts

Posted - Oct 27 2008 :  8:52:07 PM  Show Profile Send Draytondave a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Don't put to much Teflon tape on the threads. You need to have a contact surface between some of the threads and the tank to form the circuit for the electrolysis to work. If you insulate the anode it will eat away at the tank instead. Usually a couple of wraps is plenty and the threads will cut through it.
Dave

Dave
2002 Ford 5.4 F-150 4x4 XTR.
Monroe coil over rear shocks
Reece W/D Hitch, Twin Reece friction sway bars.
2008 Flagstaff 831RLSS





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rocky06fs
Forum Admin



USA
77 Posts

Posted - Nov 11 2008 :  7:07:25 PM  Show Profile Send rocky06fs a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Winterizing Video

Not a Rockwood of Flagstaff, but it's usable.

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hskids1945
Junior Member



32 Posts

Posted - Oct 23 2009 :  11:50:41 AM  Show Profile Send hskids1945 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This is the first year for winterizing my 8298SS, and I noticed when I drained the low point lines (two of them), it also drained my Hot Water Tank. I still removed the anode rod, but wonder now if that was necessary; unless it is a few seasons old and should be replaced? A 2nd question for those who may know. While it may take a little more anti-freeze, could you not add it to the fresh water tank and pump it througout the system? Like most campers, mine requies you be a bit of a contorunist to get to the area where the pump is located.

Harry & Cherrell
8298SS Rockwood Signature Ultra-Lite
Dual Cam Sway Control
2004 Ford F-150 5.4 4WD
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Capn Courage
Moderator



Canada
744 Posts

Posted - Oct 23 2009 :  4:13:09 PM  Show Profile Send Capn Courage a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Harry

Not sure I would want to put the anti freeze into the fresh water tank, most newer units have a bypass kit installed that allows you to use your pump to pump directly from the anti freeze jug into your lines, this accomplishes the same as adding the anti freeze to your fresh water tank with no worries of odours etc. from the fresh water tank. Be sure to bypass your hot water tank also otherwise you will need a lot more anti freeze.

Norm

Capn & Mrs. C
Phoenix The Camping Sheltie
2002 GMC Safari
2004 Rockwood 2304
Eaz Lift WDH
Reese AntiSway
Nights Camped 2008 = 66
Nights Camped 2009 = 74


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macbwt
Average Member



USA
122 Posts

Posted - Oct 23 2009 :  4:59:15 PM  Show Profile Send macbwt a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Don't forget the Black tank flush line.

Flagstaff 831QBSS
2002 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4x4, 5.3
Hayes Brake control
two friction sway bars
Type "S" 1200lbs bars
Monroe Sensatrac coilover shocks (rear)
2004 Tahoe 3.73 rear axle
Bill (USN,Ret), Leny, Mercedes (6) and one due November
Cassie the Ewok (sht zu)
Pebbles the Norwegian Elk Hound
Pin and Chin (Guinea Pigs)

God Bless
Days Camped 2009 (32)
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mtnguy
Junior Member



38 Posts

Posted - Nov 02 2009 :  6:32:49 PM  Show Profile Send mtnguy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by midnightpumpkin

That is the way to drain the hot water tank. When you pull the anode rod, open a hot water faucet and let it drain. I leave the anode rod out for the winter. When you install the anode rod, use teflon tape on the threads.

John U




I always put the anode rod back in, but loose. Don't want any critters crawling up in there.

Chap & DW Joy
2008 Surveyor 263
2006 F150, 4x4 Super Cab, 5.4L, 3.73 gears

Edited by - mtnguy on Nov 02 2009 6:34:06 PM
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