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KDel
Junior Member
USA
85 Posts |
 Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 5:15:05 PM
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Hi all.. Can anyone tell me where to find the hot water heater, and fresh water tank drain in an 8318ss. I am trying to find the bypass valves to try to sanitize the system. We are leaving tommorrow for Gettysburg on the maiden voyage. If I can get the bugs worked out.
Ken
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Hokiehall
Administrator
USA
360 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 5:51:24 PM
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For the water heater, look for a vented door on the exterior of your trailer that flips down. That is the water heater. Go inside to the corresponding area to access the rear of it. In some trailers is is easy to access, others requires the body to bend in ways it is not designed to do. Not sure about the 8318.
Not sure on your fresh tank. On my Flagstaff, I raise the bed to get to the tank and the valve is attached to the tank. I just have to turn it to open and drain it. Yours may be different. |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 6:03:27 PM
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Ken,
You'll find the by-pass valves behind the water heater, in the cabinet below the sink. You may have to remove a false wall to get to them. Below is a photo of the valve placements.
The water heater drain is actually the Anode Rod. You'll have to open the exterior access panel to get to it. Remove the Anode Rod with a 1-1/16" socket to drain the water heater tank.
The fresh water drain is a small white spigot, similar to an old time water cooler spigot. It's mounted on a rectangular piece of white plastic. It is mounted to the under-belly edge trim. You might find it just below the fresh water fill cap, under the trailer. It should be easy to find. It's the only white piece of rectangular plastic mounted to the black under-belly. The spigot looks similar, but not exactly, to the ones in the photos below.
Mike
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KDel
Junior Member
USA
85 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 6:37:56 PM
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Milzat,
You are the Greatest!!!!!! It looks like it left the factory with the cold water bypass in the open position. When I had them de-winterize so I could the check water, they re-winterized by blowing air through the lines and just pouring antifreeze down the drains and toilet. So the easiest way to flush and sanitize the system is to pull that heater element, open the drain, and remove the caps from the low point lines? If I get that far I guess I will let it sit overnight with the bleach mixture in the lines and flush the whole system tommorrow. Would you guys suggest putting the filter in after flushing, and before leaving home?
Ken |
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KDel
Junior Member
USA
85 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 6:42:38 PM
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Thanks Kim,
It is really not that bad once you remove the false wall it is pretty easy to reach and work on I just did not fancy getting into my new camper with a screw gun to access appliances. |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 6:47:51 PM
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I wouldn't say I'm the greatest, but maybe next in line....LOL.....
quote:
Originally posted by KDel
So the easiest way to flush and sanitize the system is to pull that heater element (Anode Rod) , open the drain, and remove the caps from the low point lines?
Ken
Sounds good.
quote:
Would you guys suggest putting the filter in after flushing, and before leaving home?
Yes. |
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Hokiehall
Administrator
USA
360 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 7:07:39 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by milzat
I wouldn't say I'm the greatest, but maybe next in line....LOL.....
Now don't hurt your arm patting yourself on the back Mike |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 7:39:10 PM
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Kim,
I'm not patting myself. I'm degrading myself.  |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 7:40:17 PM
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| Besides, my arm doesn't reach back there............. |
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KDel
Junior Member
USA
85 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 7:56:33 PM
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Thanks Guys,
I got one full tank flushed through, and pulled all of the exterior drains. The only fly in the ointment is the anode rod removal. I need a longer ratchet or breaker bar. That white silicone is stronger than it appears. How do you suggest flushing the hot water heater? Does that grey tank dump over into the black tank on its own or is there another valve hidden in the walls somewhere. The panel has buttons to check the levels in the black, fresh, galley, and grey tanks. Are'nt the grey and galley one in the same? AHHHH  this is like finding the one bulb thats out on the Christmas tree.. |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 8:11:53 PM
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Ken,
There are 4 separate tanks.
Fresh,
Black,
Grey,
and
Galley.
The Black and Grey should have separate dump valves between them. A 3"(large valve) for the Black tank and a 1-1/2"(small valve) for the Grey. The Grey plumbing may dump into the piping for the Black, via a 3" Elbow fitting with 1-1/2' piping on the back side. The Grey dump valve might be located almost flush with the under-belly material and be hard to see.
The Galley may have a separate 3"(large) drain connection near the center/front of your 83158SS. |
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Hokiehall
Administrator
USA
360 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 8:11:54 PM
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I flush my hot water tank out by removing the anode rod and running water through it for about 15 minutes. I have a socket I use to remove it. I can't remember the size right now but I think it is an inch socket. Be sure to release any pressure on that tank before removing the rod. They can shoot out like a bullet. Don;t ask me how I know.
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 22 2008 : 8:28:17 PM
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Ken,
Make sure you apply Teflon tape over the threads of the Anode Rod before you re-install it.
I made a flushing tool to clean the inside of the tank. It's made of a 2' section of PEX piping(1/2") with a Garden Hose fitting on one end. On the opposite end, I heated and flattened it. I also put a slight bend on that end. It looks similar to the one in the photo below(yellow tool with garden hose fitting to the right).
I connect it to my garden hose and stick the flattened end into the tank and wash away. It's so much fun......LOL... 
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Draytondave
Average Member
Canada
245 Posts |
Posted - Apr 24 2008 : 8:25:47 PM
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Just a tip if you use Teflon tape, Don't use to much that you insulate the Anode rod and prevent the continuity between it and the threads of the heater. You can check that with a meter set on ohms, One contact to the rod and the other to the heater if there is no continuity you have insulated the rod. Usually a couple of wraps is plenty and the threads will cut through the tape to still make a good contact.
Dave |
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Woody
Junior Member
Canada
21 Posts |
Posted - Apr 25 2008 : 08:15:18 AM
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Speaking of water heaters. I have a 8296ss Rockwood. The water heater is at the back of the trailer on the door side but I don't seem to have access to the back of the water heater from the inside which is the bedroom. Two questions. One, does anyone know if I have access to the back of the water heater and two, does it have a bypass kit attached to it. I'm wondering about winterizing it.
Woody |
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Capn Courage
Moderator
Canada
740 Posts |
Posted - Apr 25 2008 : 5:02:54 PM
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Dave
Great tip on the T tape, never thought about it needing continuity with the casing of the heater itself, I'll have to check mine.
Norm |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1119 Posts |
Posted - Apr 25 2008 : 7:16:55 PM
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Woody,
Access to the water heater is through the left rear storage compartment door, shown in the picture below.
Yes, the by-pass valves are installed at the factory.
Open the rear compartment door to access it. They may have installed a false wall on the side or back of the water heater. If so, you will have to remove it to gain access to the by-pass valves.
Mike |
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Woody
Junior Member
Canada
21 Posts |
Posted - Apr 29 2008 : 09:11:44 AM
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Thanks Mike, I would never have thought of looking there.
Woody |
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Topic |
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Help Finding Hot Water Heater
