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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
 Posted - Aug 19 2007 : 1:26:32 PM
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Warning: Long post.
Check your axle mounting.
Lately, I noticed the TT brakes on my 8315SS were lacking the stopping power it had in the past.
I'm using the Prodigy brake controller which has worked great sense the day I installed it. It was displaying NO fault codes, so a problem with it was ruled out. Still, I went through the set-up again. It was found to be working properly.
It was time to move on to a visual inspection of the condition of the brake drums and linings. Being my 8315SS is 1yr, 4mo old, this was a good opportunity to clean, inspect and re-pack the wheel bearings, while inspecting the brakes.
While looking under the trailer for a good place to lift it, to remove the tire/wheel assembly, I noticed that the position of the axles had moved, rotating downward(see photo below).
Notice the gap between the leading edge of the axle mount and the frame. All four axle mount were this way.
Below is an inside view. Notice the washer marking. This will give you an idea as to how much it moved. In fact, it moved to the end of the bolt hole slot. 
The first thing I did was to check the tightness of the mounting bolts(two bolts per axle mount, 4 bolts per axle). In doing so, I found the front bolts were not as tight as the rear. This could have been caused by the movement of the axle mount itself.
The axles needed to be placed in their correct positions and the mounting bolts re-torqued.
Using my Lego blocks to drive the front tires onto(lifting the rear tires), I removed the rear axle tire/wheel assembly to position the axles correctly. I then did the same to the front axle.
I placed a bottle jack under the axle mount. With the mounting bolts loosened, I re-positioned the axle to where they came into contact with the frame above. Then torqued all hardware to 90 ft.lbs. I also added a flat washer under the head of the bolts and replaced the lock washer on the nut side.
Now to the brake inspection.
I removed one of the brake drums to find the brake linings glazed, with small pieces missing from the lining. A small amount of axle bearing grease was found against the brake backing plate and some was found on the brake actuating linkage.
I only inspected one set of brakes as I figure the rest look the same. I'll order a set of brake shoes and wheel bearing seals, and do a complete brake job and repack the wheel bearings when the parts come in.
Mike
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
Posted - Aug 27 2007 : 9:18:31 PM
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Called around to get a price on brake shoes.
A local trailer parts dealer gave me a quote on the complete brake assembly for $43($172 + tax for all four).
The assembly includes the backing plate, shoes, springs, levers, adjusters, mounting clips, and magnets.
This should be a fairly easy replacement as all I've got to do is, remove the brake drum/hub, disconnect the 2 electric brake magnet wires and remove the 4 mounting nuts on the backing plate.
Once I get the brake assemblies replaced and repack the wheel bearings, It should be in good shape. 
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woody01
Moderator
USA
388 Posts |
Posted - Sep 05 2007 : 7:14:32 PM
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Mike,
I noticed my 8182SS doing the same thing I will do the same thing you did & loosen bolt and jack it back in place.
Steve & Nicole Wood
Luke 7, Morgan 4
2002 F-250 super-duty
2003 Rockwood 8281SS 5er |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
Posted - Sep 09 2007 : 12:04:53 PM
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I picked up 4 brake assemblies during the week and to my surprise, they were less than the price quoted. The complete brake assemblies were $37.72 each. Turns out, the previous price I was given, was for the Al-Ko assemblies. The new price is for the Dexter brand. I was told the Dexter brake assemblies were a better product.
I also purchased 4 double-lip wheel seals and 4 cotter pins.
The total price was $155.56 + tax.
Saturday was brake replacement and wheel bearing packing day.
Below is the factory Al-Ko brake assembly.
New Dexter brake assembly installed.
A local auto parts store checked and resurfaced(turned) the drake drums. This was done so the brake lining contact surface will be true. This will help in the break-in of the new linings.
Drums cleaned and painted, except for the Aluminum wheel contact area.
All assembled and ready for a test run.
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Newfie
Moderator
Canada
1100 Posts |
Posted - Sep 11 2007 : 09:49:00 AM
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Great job there Mike.
No pics of the wheel bearings?
How long dud it take per wheel?
Darin
Newfie
Wife, Daughter-6, Son-2, Tanner the Terrier
2007 Expedition, Load Leveling Suspension, Prodigy :-)
2006 Flagstaff 831BHSS |
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Paul B
20 Post Club
USA
87 Posts |
Posted - Sep 11 2007 : 11:19:00 AM
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Now if we could just find a decent set of tires for our rigs??
Paul B
2001 Excursion, PSD
Tent camped 25 years
Coleman popup 7 years[s/]
[s]1995 27' Award TT 7 years[s/]
[s]27' 1998 Wilderness by Fleetwood 3 years
2006 829RGSS Flagstaff |
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2007Rockwood2601
100 Club
USA
123 Posts |
Posted - Sep 11 2007 : 11:40:36 AM
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| Thanks for the info My 2601 has a similar setup and I will keep an eye on it. If you keep having the problem a 2nd bolt of a small weld may be the fix. I was just looking at this on our last trip wondered why the top of the axle bracket wasn't hitting the frame but mine looked like it was installed this way it was not hitting all the way fount to back. I guess I will need to take a second look |
Edited by - 2007Rockwood2601 on Sep 11 2007 11:43:01 AM |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
Posted - Sep 11 2007 : 4:17:42 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Newfie
Great job there Mike.
No pics of the wheel bearings?
How long dud it take per wheel?
Darin
Being you asked, here's a few pics.
The wheel bearings were in good shape.
When I first took delivery of the TT back in Apr. of '06, I packed the wheel bearings. This is something I do to all type trailers I've purchased.
Short Story:
Years ago(many years ago), I purchased a trailer for a company I worked for at the time. The wheel bearings completely went out at about 500 miles. When disassembled and inspected, it looked as if the bearings had very little or no grease, from the factory. Since then, I make it a point to disassemble the wheels and pack the bearings from new.
On to the job.
Bearing cap removed.
Removing cotter pin & castle nut.
Flat washer.
Outer bearing cone.
Outer bearing cup.
Spindle, after cleaning.
Drum, with inner bearing & seal, and outer bearing, washer, nut and cotter pin.
Closer view of outer bearing. Greasy, but in good shape.
All parts were cleaned and packed with fresh grease.
From the time I pulled the TT out from the RV cover, setting it up on the drive in front of my shop and driving back and forth to the auto parts store to get the drums re-surfaced, it took about 4 hours to complete. |
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Newfie
Moderator
Canada
1100 Posts |
Posted - Sep 12 2007 : 05:20:50 AM
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I probably have 3000kms on my 06. Should I be looking at repacking the bearings already?
I think I'll pull the drums for an inspection. Just as well to do the bearings then. What do you wash then in?
Darin
Newfie
Wife, Daughter-6, Son-2, Tanner the Terrier
2007 Expedition, Load Leveling Suspension, Prodigy :-)
2006 Flagstaff 831BHSS |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
Posted - Sep 12 2007 : 05:57:46 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Newfie
I probably have 3000kms on my 06. Should I be looking at repacking the bearings already?
I think I'll pull the drums for an inspection. Just as well to do the bearings then. What do you wash then in?
Darin
Darin,
I'd inspect and repack at this time.
I used CRC Brakleen from NAPA only because that was what I had available. You can use almost any type solvent(thinner, gasoline, diesel), but be careful with them. You'll only need a small amount in a small, shallow pan. Wear gloves while using these products.
The CRC Brakleen is easy to use. Just lay down a few old rags and place the parts on them, and spray away the grease.
Mike |
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Paul B
20 Post Club
USA
87 Posts |
Posted - Sep 12 2007 : 07:22:36 AM
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Or get a bearing greaser. I have a hand held one. Put bearing on, assemble top thingy, grease until you see new grease ooze out. No messing with solvents.
Paul B
2001 Excursion, PSD
Tent camped 25 years
Coleman popup 7 years[s/]
[s]1995 27' Award TT 7 years[s/]
[s]27' 1998 Wilderness by Fleetwood 3 years
2006 829RGSS Flagstaff |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
Posted - Sep 12 2007 : 2:39:46 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul B
Or get a bearing greaser. I have a hand held one. Put bearing on, assemble top thingy, grease until you see new grease ooze out. No messing with solvents.
Paul
So what you're stating is, you'd push the old dirty grease out, by pumping the new grease in.
I'm very familiar with the tool you mention. It's fast and easy to use, once you've cleaned and inspected the bearing rollers.
IMHO, I'd still rather clean and visually inspect the bearings before packing with fresh grease. |
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woody01
Moderator
USA
388 Posts |
Posted - Mar 23 2008 : 11:34:48 AM
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The axles on my 5er were the same. I adjusted them yesterday I belive this is happened when the trailer brakes locked up pre prodigy days. Mine looked just like Mike's.
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toaobigal
100 Club
Canada
156 Posts |
Posted - Mar 23 2008 : 1:02:43 PM
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| Before my tent-trailer hits the road this season, I have a brake and bearing inspection planned. Since I work in a garage, cleaning the bearing won't be a problem. Even though my trailer is brand new, it travelled about 2500 km behind my car last summer and I would be very surprised if the brakes don't need ajusting. I want to make sure everything is perfect so I can set-up my new Prodigy brake controler. Lucky for me, there's only one axle, so it should be done within an hour. |
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wboudx
5 Post Club
USA
13 Posts |
Posted - May 02 2009 : 08:44:18 AM
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milzat,
On the axle mount problem. I know you jacked yours up for a reason. Could I just loosen the bolt in front and let the weight of the trailer push the mount down?
Walt
Walter and Cathy
2008 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
2006 Nissan Armada
Equal-i-zer WDH
Prodigy
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CaLBar
100 Club
Canada
269 Posts |
Posted - May 02 2009 : 3:16:29 PM
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If you don't use the jack and loosen the bolt the gap will get bigger. You need to use the jack to push it back flush.
Rob
CaLBaR
2009 Toyota Tundra 5.7 4x4 TRD Crew Max
2007 8298SS
Reese HP DC |
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Draytondave
100 Club
Canada
272 Posts |
Posted - May 02 2009 : 8:28:56 PM
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Well I just pulled my trailer home from storage and took a look at the axles and yes some of mine have moved as well. two are about a 1/4 inch, one is 1/8 inch and one is good. Sheesh you would think by now FR would have done something about it.
Dave
2002 Ford 5.4 F-150 4x4 XTR.
Monroe coil over rear shocks
Reece W/D Hitch, Twin Reece friction sway bars.
2008 Flagstaff 831RLSS
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CaLBar
100 Club
Canada
269 Posts |
Posted - May 03 2009 : 06:00:21 AM
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A couple of mine have moved as well. I am going to put the 1/2" bolts through the frame like John did so I don't have to deal with this one again.
Rob
CaLBaR
2009 Toyota Tundra 5.7 4x4 TRD Crew Max
2007 8298SS
Reese HP DC |
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milzat
Administrator
USA
1181 Posts |
Posted - May 07 2009 : 5:12:39 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by wboudx
milzat,
On the axle mount problem. I know you jacked yours up for a reason. Could I just loosen the bolt in front and let the weight of the trailer push the mount down?
Walt
Walter and Cathy
2008 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
2006 Nissan Armada
Equal-i-zer WDH
Prodigy
Hi Walt.
No.
I don't think the axle will go back into place that way. Loosen the bolts and place the jack at the front of the axle mount. The jack will push it into place.
Mike
Mike
Site Founder/Administrator |
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Draytondave
100 Club
Canada
272 Posts |
Posted - May 07 2009 : 8:59:33 PM
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I also used a "C" clamp to pull it up tight to the frame sideways while tightning the bolts.
Dave
Dave
2002 Ford 5.4 F-150 4x4 XTR.
Monroe coil over rear shocks
Reece W/D Hitch, Twin Reece friction sway bars.
2008 Flagstaff 831RLSS
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Brakes/Axle Mounts
